Paolo Carzana - The Power of Fragility

One of the standout collections in London Fashion Week's series of shows was not one centred in an ample space with big budget and conceptual surroundings; instead, it was a presentation in a small, understated area at the Old Selfridges Hotel. Through its exceptional execution, the SS23 collection from Paolo Carzana needed no klaxon or gimmick because the design work spoke of his outstanding talent. If anything, the choice of considered space spoke volumes of the designer's authentic intentions.

For once, I found myself not only admiring the collection, but also watching the watchers. The small NewGen presentation space was filled with awestruck observers, avidly discussing the creations. A handful of models stood on pedestals, and unlike many shows where industry leaders race between engagements, there felt a reluctance from the audience to leave. It was just too good. At one end, a perfectly lit studio space offered a platform for each model to take centre stage, for the audience to examine the pieces more closely. The lighting rendered the models an ethereal quality, delicate yet powerful, swathed in layers of diaphanous fabrics that twisted and turned about their bodies in sculptural formations.

The collection, 'Imagine We could Be the Ones to Change it All', was the London Fashion Week debut for Paolo Carzana. It follows a short but stellar career for a young designer who single-handedly has the potential to change it all. He tells us that his designs signal 'a new certainty. Tenderness' The collection is set across 24 hours, beginning at midnight. 'The cusp of trauma' and daylight is reflected in soft whites while grey tapestry suits symbolise dusk and 'a moment of peace and resolution.' Paolo seeks peace, consideration for our planet and a world rich in understanding and collaboration. Trinidadian artist Mairi Millar made fine jewellery to complement the collection, while Naszir Mazhar made stunning headwear and sculptural wings. South Korean artist Semin Hong has created unique layered organic cotton, never before placed on the body. Through her work with Paolo, she hopes to create a shared message of healing, while Paolo suggests that his clothes are 'trauma transformed into serene resilience'.

Hailing from Cardiff, from a young age, Carzana found the healing power of artistry in adversity. Often singled out for his differences at school, he, like so many artists before him, spoke of his creativity as a vital lifeline. Undoubtedly, he has channelled those turbulent experiences into positive energy that has seen him win the LVMH scholarship, Dazed 100, and Newgen sponsorship from the British Fashion Council. Most recently, he has become a designer in residence at the prestigious Sarabande Foundation, founded in 2006 by Lee McQueen.

In 2021 his first show was created entirely alone in his studio in Cardiff. In the pandemic's isolation, he envisaged other realities surrounding himself with imagined characters that shielded him from outside challenges. He described the collection 'Another World' as based on spiritual healing, romanticism, craft and nature, interplaying with elements of his heritage and Welsh mythology. And in this solitary environment, Carzana had time to develop new techniques and natural dyes. Using plants, fruits and herbs like madder root, raspberries and turmeric, he even infused materials with witch hazel and lavender to bring healing properties to the clothes whilst constructing them in an environmentally considerate way.

Carzana's collections are assemblages created with unique hand-sewing techniques and intricate construction methods using salvaged heritage fabrics like Welsh quilting, bamboo silk, pineapple leather, and organic cotton. This working method has given him total control over the production process, one he sees rooted in sustainability. These are the values of a designer who genuinely desires to change the environmental conversation. The hours taken to create the dyes and to sew each garment demonstrate his progressive vision of fashion design. As he expressed in past interviews with Vogue, "It's the idea that there's an alternative way to do things." That comment is a sentiment that will resonate with contemporaries and other fledgeling designers who see past multinationals' greenwashing and look to make authentic change. A previous collection called 'The Boy you Stole' alludes perhaps to a challenging past or maybe references Carzana's thoughts on the perilous future inherited by this generation. Whatever the reference, the designer is clearly transforming fashion design, demonstrating the possibilities, and, as he says, 'addressing the tension between art and commerce, faith and feeling' through his stunning creations.

Runway imagery - Jean-Francois Carly

This work has so much delicate beauty; with its subtle handcrafted, hand-dyed construction, you can see the dedication and passion that has informed every piece. There are no other words to describe Paolo Carzana's designs than breath taking. This is the work of a modern master who has much to bring to fashion, not just from his exceptional garments but also the techniques and approaches he uses to create them that will hopefully influnece us to consider a new approach. The level of intricate, hand-crafted work is not intended to be measured by the quantity of sales, it’s about creating unique lasting pieces that are desirable because they are limited editions. It’s about slowing the pace of consumerism so that sustainability truly supersedes scalability. Notably, the latest collection was flanked by angels with asymmetrical wings, in white, grey and and black: symbols of light, ardour and purity. And perhaps the power in fragility they represent is the perfect symbolism for Paolo Carzana; it sums up that authentic sentiment and approach that sets him apart from his predecessors while it lights the way for his contemporaries and all who come after them.

You can see more of Paolo’s designs here.

Thanks to Paolo, Ethan at Agency Eleven and Show Consultant Andrew Davis for inviting us.

Paolo Carzana - The Power of Fragility

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