LFW AW20 - Fashion Scout
Each February and September, Fashion Scout showcases international designers from the UK, USA, Asia, Scandinavia, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. Here is a round-up of our favourite shows from Fashion Scout AW20:
PAM HOGG
This season, as always the pre-show buzz at the Pam Hogg was intense. The collection was 'dedicated to all the outsiders'. Those that dare to dress as they please, to speak their minds and to be their authentic selves - no matter the backlash. The first model emerged in a black latex-esque dress holding a banner that read, 'there are no human rights on a dead planet'. The rest paraded in vertiginous quiffs, one in transparent tulle that laid the body bare, with just enough ruffles to hide her modesty. Was Hogg commenting on our vulnerability? Shirts were tattered and torn, held together with safety pins... next came satin dresses covered in bows and wipe clean latex dresses accompanied with batgirl masks.... were these the fetishistic heroes set to save the day? Or were they here to challenge the PVC vampires in pillar box red. T-shirts cleverly carried the message ‘immortal’, where the first two letters were in red, altering the acceptation and reminding us that even Ozymandious was not infallible. Human race-take the hint! Our favourite pieces had to be the pompom dress in candy-coloured tulle and the velvet cross-encrusted headdresses. As usual, Pam allowed us to make our own interpretations. Slogans such as 'being an outsider is one thing being treated like one is another', reminded us to be more tolerant. As always the outfits were, fetishistic, irreverent and fresh and we dare you to wear them outside the confines of TG and to spread Pam's message!
DB BERDAN
DB Berdan's gender-fluid brand showed on schedule this season at London Fashion Week. This is a brand that feels the urgency of climate change and the responsibility to act now. The show explored our real and digital worlds with a collection entitled 'Scan to escape'. In collaboration with independent London-based artists; Ursula Pelczar, Fabrizio Panella, Compiler.zone , Don Carlito, Christoph Andreas Pelczar and Agathe Silvagni we were invited to scan QR codes embedded in the prints transporting us from one reality to another.
Working with a Turkish denim mill, the label has strived to create pieces constructed from ethically sourced denim. Exo created 'skeletal' jewellery to remind us of our imperfections, and that nature will always find a way. DB Berdan aims to unite individuals from all communities with its cross-gender looks inspired by streetwear and underground culture. In palettes of khaki, grey, blues and blacks with fluorescent accents, the collection is accessible with edge, sure to have a large following who understand that fashion need not be restricted to gender stereotypes, and it also must not cost the earth.
SLOVAK FASHION COUNCIL - FREIER
Young Slovak brand Freier took inspiration from the street, experimenting with cut and details to produce a collection that was artfully layered with oversize silhouettes in blues, whites and beige. Founded in 2018 by Terézia Feňovčíková, her label has already garnered attention at Bratislava Design week where she was given the accolade Fashion Live fresh designer in 2017.
FUTURE COLLECTIVE PRESENTS - LOUIS DE GAMA
Louis de Gama has been taking a break from design. But, it has given him time to reflect on the direction of the fashion industry and his label. Namely, he looked at sustainability and creating a collection of one-offs. Embracing craftsmanship, the pieces were predominantly handmade, featuring tunic dresses made from natural hand-dyed silks and cottons with accents of lace that lend it a modern folk feel. Demonstrating techniques in ruching, smocking and drapery in reds, greens and pinks it is one for the contemporary romantics with an eye on ethical fashion.
ONES TO WATCH - MANON PLANCHE
MANON PLANCHE's collection entitled 'Time Traveller' asked us to consider our wardrobe, not as a place for fast fashion but as a place for pieces that are reinvented, personal and cherished for years. An Alumni of the University of Westminster, the designer, explored a collection with a conscience, comprising of preexisting pieces upcycled from past collections and other recycled materials such as denim and fabrics produced from industrial waste materials. As if gathering elements through time, the collection has a patchwork aesthetic with voluminous dresses and coats in a spectrum of denims with fraying to reflect the journey from past to present. For AW20 Manon truly is a jean genie.
APUJAN
Apujan took us across timelines and into the stratosphere for AW20. The collection entitled "The Cloud-Making Factory" took elements such as chimneys, factories and gears to transport us to great heights. Inspired by the literary works of Monica Jackson ("Tents in the Clouds") and Elizabeth Stark, the designers sought to take us to an imaginary world where clouds were created by factories, and where it was hard to differentiate the real and the fairytale. Signature details prevailed; traditional oriental accents fused with modern styles and leisurewear. Embracing technology, the collection employed techniques such as digital embroidery and the creation of 3D jacquards, digital prints and handmade machine knitted pieces. Working in conjunction with Nike, the Air Max was featured as an accessory. Comprising of over 100 pieces, we had the pleasure of seeing 36 items of the collection. Though Apujan could be said to have his head in the clouds for this season's inspiration, his modern approach to production ensures Apujan has one foot firmly in the future too. APUJAN has already attracted international media attention; featured in Elle, Vogue, GQ, Bazaar, and WALLPAPER magazines. Find out more at @apujan
Y-PLUS
Turkish designer Yakup Bicer took us on a cultural journey to his homeland and the wold of Kirkpinar wrestlers for Y-Plus AW20. The Turkish tournament has been held for 630 years featuring wrestlers covered in olive oil which are hailed as heroes. Individual pieces celebrated the wrestler's best attributes; courage and strength. 'Pehlivan' prints, embroidery and the designer's take on camouflage broke up the predominantly black palette on the oversized silhouettes. Turkish supermodel, Tülin Şahin brought a swoon as she carried her newborn daughter Siena down the catwalk for the finale. This is a collection that is memorable in more ways than one.
