Assembling Fashion's Future
Crafting her first collection during the pandemic, Sinéad O'Dwyer's eponymous label has become synonymous with a commitment to creating clothes for femme-identifying humans who don't ascribe to the sample-size stereotypes that still characterize too many fashion collections and retail spaces. That body-positive advocacy is mirrored on the catwalk, where those modelling her creations embrace a panoply of figures and in-store, where her pieces are available in a selection of sizes. Suffused with this ethical empathy is a design aesthetic that's sassy and sexy, delicate and dominant, fun and fearless. Clothes are imbued with a freedom of movement that is both fabulous and functional.
While exploring the transitional nature of a summer wardrobe for SS24, Sinéad also took us both figuratively and literally back to school. The designer sought inspiration from her own youth and the after-school ritual of changing out of what we are forced to wear into what we want to wear; in addition to channelling those teenage years in rural Ireland, Sinéad also referenced her days in further education, showing the collection at her alma mater, the Royal College of Art, where she graduated with an MA in fashion.
Entitled "Assembly", the RCA's "Fashion Studios" were transformed into a space somewhat akin to a school hall gathering, with the presentation of her pieces interposed with a Q and A session in which she expounded on her dedication to creating size-inclusive garments and the challenges that can arise in adhering to this philosophy.
While "Assembly" drew from the designer's school days, her creations were far from uniform. Her inspirations manifested themselves in mohair pullovers and cardigans, box pleated culottes in school-issue wool plaid, rara shorts featuring double-layered pleats, and thigh-high striped socks. Elaborating on this theme and taking it from the classroom to school sports day striped vests, ribbed tank tops and a knitted tracksuit also appeared.
"Assembly" also featured the signature shirting that aficionados of Sinéad have grown to love. One which particularly caught our eye was a sky-blue shirt replete with sculpted plastron bibs and which incorporated the bust-supporting necktie construction that first appeared last season. The designer also displayed white stretch poplin shirts reconfigured as leotards and a piped pyjama shirt in ultrasoft cotton, pearl grey satin and gabardine.
It was a collection equally defined by the slinky sensuality and unencumbered sexuality which lies at the core of the designer's creative expression. An integral element of the brand's DNA and a further expression of body positivity which underpins all that she does. Floor skimming gowns and knitted body suits shared space with harnesses and micro miniskirts while a subtle butt plug motif fastened and adorned certain pieces. Evidence that Sinéad O'Dwyer is a designer who is constantly evolving also saw her debuting a denim jean embellished with Swarovski crystal appliques.
With "Assembly" Sinéad O'Dwyer has reinforced her position as a designer who is at the forefront of fashion. A position she's acquired and richly deserves through her utilizing the transformative magic of fashion to create exquisitely crafted, breathtaking clothes for humans of all shapes and sizes. She leads the way in showing us that luxury fashion can be made with inclusivity and diversity at its very heart. And that the only obstacles in adhering to those principles lie with those unwilling to make the effort to follow them.
Challenging the fashion industry's perceived and preconceived norms, Sinéad O'Dwyer is widening the doors of perception as to what's possible. Hers is a blueprint for doing things differently that we hope more will follow.
With this latest collection the designer has assembled an array of pieces that can be worn and enjoyed by everyone, and reminiscent of the school experiences which informed it, we hope that you will join us in line to admire them.
